There’s only one way to describe how recent eyebrow trends have made me feel. Brow-beaten. Firstly, there was a shift towards uber-thick and dramatically brushed-up, a movement which sprouted during lockdown salon closures and turned into a competition to grow the bushiest brows known to womankind. As somebody born with slender brows, I was always onto a loser with that one.
Neither did I appreciate last year’s swing towards 90s micro-skinny, a trend I sampled the first time round and still have a missing chunk of hair to show for it.
Now I'm older and wiser, I struggle to see the point of trying to turn your brows into something they were never meant to be. (Surely beauty is all about making the very best of what nature gave you, rather than decreeing that a part of you is a ‘wrong’ or ‘unfashionable’ shape or size.)
“Extreme brow trends can put pressure on women,” agrees celebrity brow artist Sherrille Riley, founder of Nails & Brows Mayfair. “Thankfully, we are now seeing a much softer, more low maintenance look, where there’s a little bit of enhancement but far more natural.”
For 2024 at least, the needle that has swung from one extreme to the other has now settled on a gloriously normal new equilibrium. Brows are being allowed to be brows again, and for Sherrille, this shift has arrived not a moment too soon.
“Those exaggerated brow trends really didn’t translate into an everyday look, yet that’s how they were being replicated by lots of women,” she says. “Now that’s all changing, for the better.”
The professional approach
To prove her point, she’s invited me to try the Brow Lift, currently the most popular treatment at her chic London salon. “This combines shaping and tinting with a modern spin on lamination - where brow hairs are set into a long-lasting shape, but one that’s just beautifully groomed and very slightly lifted, not artificially brushed up,” she explains.
Taking around an hour to perform, the treatment is an extremely clever balancing act: managing to transform my rather neglected brows without making me look or feel like I’ve got somebody else’s features tattooed onto my head. The difference is remarkable. By darkening my colour and brushing the hairs subtly upwards, my brows look thicker, more defined but also natural.
Rather than parting and drooping halfway, my brows now flow in a neat, face-framing arch, and require very little upkeep beyond a quick morning brush-through with a spoolie. It’s exactly the kind of trend I can get behind: polished, wearable and exceedingly easy to maintain.
Lynne before and after her Brow Lift treatment at Sherrille’s salon
A-list beauty guru Shavata Singh is thinking along very similar lines at her celebrated chain of brow parlours. She sees the 2024 brow as the equivalent of swapping an ill-fitting outfit for the perfect dress. “Nothing underneath has changed, yet the fit and the fabric creates an illusion that makes you feel fabulous,” she says. “The modern brow makeover will do that to your face. It’s not about going against nature and creating an unrealistic shape you can’t maintain at home.”
A tailored approach lends extra finesse, she notes. “It’s about creating the best version of yourself, for your age. So if somebody has dark circles, I’ll make the natural brow shape very slightly slimmer because hair absorbs light; and for a subtle facial lifting effect I’ll move the arch very slightly outwards. It’s all bespoke to your own beauty.”
How to achieve the new modern brow
Ideally, visit a professional to reset your brow equilibrium, but if that’s not possible there are some ground rules to follow. “The front of the brow must be soft, natural and in line with what you were blessed with. Don’t pluck inwards as it looks unbalanced,” says Sherrille. “Also, never tweeze away hairs to raise your arch. Focus on removing fluff, nothing else, because that’s what gives you a clean, naturally defined brow shape.”
Brow enhancement at home is done with a similarly light touch, says Shavata. “A great eyebrow pencil is paramount. Hold it as if you’re sketching, not writing, and build up the colour in a very loose, light hair stroke motion. Two shades darker than your natural hair colour is the holy grail for flattering definition. Then go in with a conditioning brow gel to set it into a neat, natural shape.”
If you’ve tinted your brows, just the gel alone might be enough to master this low-key look. “Often you can just stroke them into shape and go,” says Sherrille. “Think of it like your hair on an off-duty day. You’ll brush through to tidy, add a little something for hold and then you’re off.”
The laid-back brow is low maintenance but not no maintenance, adds Shavata. “A quick monthly tidy-up is what I’d recommend. In between, do the bare minimum. Pluck out the odd hair that’s grown faster than the rest, but otherwise do not tamper with the shape. Doing less is more.”
Done right, powder can look impeccably natural on brows. This nifty duo from brow authority ABH has two natural-looking shades to create a shape that looks like your own. Use the lighter shade at the front of your brown to keep it looking clean and light, and the darker shade at the arch and tail for a brow that looks naturally thick. There are 11 shade duos available, so there’s bound to be a combination for everyone.
Lacking a steady hand? Don’t worry; this clear gel is near enough foolproof. Simply brush hairs upwards for a quick groom, or through the hairs after you’ve filled in sparse areas to set your work in place. The best thing about this brow gel is that its formula nourishes as it tames - castor oil and vitamin E strengthens and conditions your brows as you wear it. Clever.
This tiny tip makes real-looking hairstrokes easy. The formula is creamy, never wears waxy or compromises your natural shape, and you only need a light touch to feather on short strokes. Finding the perfect pencil can be tricky, but beauty editor Lynne Hyland feels she’s onto a winner.
One of Glossier’s hero products, this clever brow gel lends a soft, flexible hold for tidy, groomed hair that stays in place. The mini spoolie grabs onto the thinnest of hairs, but never smudges onto the surrounding skin. Plus, the shade range is beautifully brow-accurate, making online shopping a breeze.
A little bit of space-saving genius for your makeup bag. One end is an ultra-fine pen that allows you to draw hair-like strokes in any missing gaps, while the other end has a clear gel that holds straggly hairs in place all day. While some gels feel crunchy and uncomfortable, this one sit so comfortably on the hair, it’s easy to forget it’s there. A great option for really sparse eyebrows, where every stroke of the pen matters.
One of the thinnest brow pencils we’ve found, the tiny nib on this pencil allows for total control when filling in any sparse areas. The fine tip means you can be really precise with product placement, filling in any gaps confidently. The spoolie brush on the end also means you can brush any product out, to create a natural, fluffy finish.